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Sunday, June 23, 2013

DIY Plans for Building a Dining Table

DIY Plans for Building a Dining Table

A dining table is the focal point of any dining room. Its size dominates the area, and its style dictates the style of the rest of the room. It is not only a place to eat but a place to serve food and even a place to decorate. The dining table truly sets the tone for a meal.



Building your own dining table is not difficult, but it takes time and effort--and good-quality wood. Does this Spark an idea?

Size

    Dining tables can be built to complement any furniture style, but your primary consideration should be its proportions. Start with the table itself. Ask yourself if the thickness of the top is appropriate for its size. You certainly don't want a tabletop that looks more like a piece of paper or a mere chunk of wood. Make sure the thickness of the top and the legs, plus the width of the apron, are all proportionate to each other. Thick tops should not sit on delicate legs, nor should thin tops be dwarfed by massive aprons.

    These proportions should then be viewed as a unit. Be certain the tabletop's size is proportionate to its height. One reason dining tables are usually large affairs is that a small table may appear too tall. But you must also take care when building a wider one, because you don't want a large table that looks fragile.

    Finally, consider how the table fills its space in the room. It should not be too small compared with the room's other furnishings, yet you must allow enough room for diners to move around the table, even when others are seated.

Legs and Apron

    The legs of a dining table can be straight, tapered or turned. However, it is traditional to leave the top of the leg square so it can be more easily joined to the apron pieces.

    While the legs of farm tables can be attached in many acceptable ways, formal dining tables must incorporate a certain level of sophistication in their construction. This generally means mortise-and-tenon joints. A tenon is a "tongue" of wood that is sculpted from the apron piece and fits into a mortise, which is a slot cut in the corresponding leg. This allows the apron to appear almost molded to the leg. In addition, mortise-and-tenon joints are very strong.

    Some craftsmen add a block to each corner of the apron-and-leg assembly, to add further strength and stability. The cut ends of the corner blocks are beveled at a 45-degree angle, then bolted to the leg and screwed to both apron pieces. If you do not wish to attempt this sometimes-tricky bracing method, ready-made metal brackets are available to simplify the job.

Tops

    Dining table tops are generally made from glued-up lumber that's been planed and sanded smooth. Furniture-grade plywood is another possibility, but the edges cannot be left exposed. If plywood is used, the edges must be banded. Edging tape can be employed, but it runs the risk of being knocked loose if someone bumps against it.

    A better solution is to use lumber that matches the plywood veneer. Depending on the size of the table, lumber "strips" of perhaps 3 or 4 inches in width can be glued to the long edges of the table. then similar pieces can be glued along the narrower edges, covering both the plywood and the lumber edges. The grain on this piece usually runs "across the grain," which gives the end a finished look while adding some detail and interest to an otherwise plain top.

Finishes

    There is no standard finishing method for dining tables, other than choosing something elegant. Paint may work for a farm table, but not for a dining table. Choose an appropriate stain and, if appropriate to the room's other furnishings, multiple levels of a clear-coat finish to make the table more durable and easier to clean.

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