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Sunday, June 23, 2013

How to Build a Table With Metal Legs

To create a table with metal legs it is first necessary to purchase (or find) four metal legs and then build a tabletop to which you can attach the legs. The final product will be a piece of furniture that is part wood and part metal, which can then be added to your home or work space. These kinds of tables are very functional and easy to move around. The table legs are not as bulky as those made from wood, which might add to the practical appeal of this type of table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Select four identical metal table legs from a catalog or specialty store. Be sure the legs have a metal flange with several holes so that the legs can be attached to the tabletop. Because the metal legs cannot be cut, your choice of height is important. A range for the overall height of your table may be from 32 inches to 36 inches.
    The height of the table frame is also important. It can vary from 3 inches to 8 inches, depending on the size of stock available. If you use standard-size lumber, a table frame (including the top) will come in at either 4 1/4 inches or 6 1/4 inches. So if you plan to build a table to the height of 34 inches, you might look for table legs that are either 28 inches or 30 inches in length. However, if you come across a really super group of legs that are 29 inches, then be prepared to re-cut your wood stock or change the overall height of the table by an inch.

    2

    Decide on the overall size of your tabletop. Because the table height is already established, this means calculating the width and length of the tabletop. A small tabletop might be 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. This is the size that will be used for this discussion.

    3

    Choose the type of wood that you wish to use. For someone just starting out with the practice of making a piece of furniture, a softwood might be a good choice. More experienced builders might opt for the hardwoods. These woods are often selected for their beautiful grain and subtle color, which gives the table top a nice luster.

    4

    Select four pieces of high-quality clear lumber that are true and straight, and cut the four pieces for the sides of the table. Cut two pieces at precisely 1 foot 10 inches. These will be the end pieces. Next cut the two side pieces at 3 feet 8 1/2 inches. When put together this will give you a frame that is 1 foot 10 inches by 3 feet 10 inches. On top of this frame will sit a tabletop that measures 2 feet by 4 feet. These measurements allow for a 1 inch overhang on each side. All cuts must be made be square. Drill a pilot hole and countersink before you insert the screws. Join these four pieces to form a rectangle using three 2-inch flat-head wood screws (8 or 10 gauge).

    5

    Cut four 6-inch pieces of 1-by-4 stock (purchased lumber will come with the actual width of 3 1/2 inches) to use as braces and points of attachment to the table legs. Make a 45-degree angled cut at the end of each board. Do this with the miter saw set at a 45-degree angle. The four braces will be installed at the bottom edge of the frame. The pieces will be horizontal, and they can be attached with 1 1/2 inch flat-head screws that are inserted from the side. The screws will need pilot holes and countersink cuts. Fill the holes with putty that matches the color of the wood, and sand thoroughly.

    6

    Cut two cross pieces for the tabletop. These pieces should be 20 1/2 inches in length and come from the same stock, but overall visual quality is not critical. Attach these wood pieces from the side with three screws (2 inch) at both ends. The three screws need a pilot hole and countersink because they are to be drilled from the face of the frame. Place each board about 6 inches from the end of the table.

    7

    Build the tabletop. First, cut each piece so that it is 2 inches longer than the table frame. In this example the overall length will be exactly 4 feet. For a really sharp-looking tabletop, you can make rabbet joints on the side of each board with a router, or you can just leave the side of each board with a straight edge. Either way you might have to plane the side of each board. Also, check to see that each piece is true and straight.
    Install the center piece first. This piece gets screwed into place right away. Make sure that it is dead center and that it overhangs 1 inch on each end. After the center board is secure, place one board at a time and use wooden Jorgensen or pipe clamps to tighten the tabletop as you go. For added strength add a small bead of carpenter's glue between each pair of boards.The two end pieces might need to be ripped on a table saw and then planed. Only the center board is screwed into place at first. Then when all the rest of the boards are set in place and tightened with the clamps, you may insert 1 1/4 flat-head wood screws from the bottom. Put at least four screws (two at each spot) into each board. Let the clamps stay in place until the glue has dried.

    8

    Sand the tabletop thoroughly with an orbital sander.

    9

    Fill all holes with putty and add a nice clear finish.

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